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November 13, 2001 ©The New York Times
CELLAR PICKS
Wines of the Week [See
Smith Madrone Review]
By LESLIE SBROCCO
Thanksgiving dinner is the ultimate roundup of comfort
foods from succulent roast turkey to mashed potatoes
smothered with gravy and savory cornbread stuffing.
Even the traditional desserts -- pumpkin and apple pie
-- soothe with sweetness.
The challenge in picking a wine for the turkey table
lies not with the type of food, but the combination
of strong flavors. Avoid the mouth-puckering tannins
of a big cabernet, or an oak-laden chardonnay, which
can compete with the cacophonous holiday fare. Look
for wines that are juicy, soft and friendly.
This year it seems appropriate to raise a glass in honor
of our country’s unique celebration by highlighting
American wines.
WHITE
With fruity spiciness and refreshing acidity, gewürztraminer
and riesling, are ideal whites to pour.
2000 Geyser Peak Winery, California, Gewürztraminer
$ 10 – A slightly sweet yet vibrant white that
captures the essence of California gewürztraminer.
With its floral, fruity, and spicy character, this is
a crowd-pleaser.
2000 Foris Vineyards, Oregon, Gewürztraminer
$ 11 – A dry, Alsatian-style of gewürztraminer
from southern Oregon that’s full-bodied and highly
aromatic. It has a sassy pink grapefruit character that
really wakes you up.
2000 Firestone Vineyards, Santa Barbara, Gewürztraminer
$ 8 – Almost seems like a New Zealand sauvignon
blanc with its lemon/lime and kiwi
notes, but this dry, unoaked white is just delicious.
2000 Smith-Madrone, Napa Valley,
Riesling
$ 17 – Impressive for its balance of roundness
and crisp complexity. Lots of apricot and pear notes
on the nose followed up by wonderful citrus flavors
and a long, dry finish.
2000 Kendall-Jackson, Vintner’s Reserve, Riesling
$ 10 – Sporting telltale floral aromas, melon and
apricot flavors, this riesling tends towards the sweeter
side, but it has a racy kick of acidity that pairs well
with turkey day dishes.
ROSÉ
Dry rosés are something you may not have thought
about uncorking, but they’re juicy and potent.
2000 Chimney Rock, Napa Valley, Rosé of Cabernet
Franc
$ 15 – Powerful pink stuff that’s sure to
win over anyone who thinks rosé is a wimpy wine.
Dry and delicious, it’s full of strawberry, raspberry
and cinnamon notes.
2000 McDowell Valley Vineyards, Mendocino, Grenache
Rosé
$ 9 – Just think pink with Thanksgiving and pour
this wine. It’s a dry rosé bursting with
cherry, watermelon, and even a touch of tart cranberry
flavors.
1996 Iron Horse Vineyards, Brut Rosé, Sonoma
County sparkling wine
$ 28 – Bubbly with Thanksgiving? You bet. Pairing
substance with style, this sparkler made from pinot
noir and chardonnay is a beauty. Rich and elegant you
can pour it before, during, and after dinner.
RED
Pinot noir is the choice for reds as it takes on tangy
cranberry sauce with ease and has the guts to stand
up to spicy sausage stuffing.
2000 Beaulieu Vineyards, Coastal, Pinot Noir
$ 11 – One of the best affordable pinots on the
market. It’s full and ripe with succulent bing
cherry and berry fruit graced by tea leaf and earthy
notes.
2000 Villa Mt. Eden, Coastal, Pinot Noir
$10 – Affordable pinots are almost an oxymoron,
but not with this silky, strawberry-scented wine. A
few herbal aromas add interest while soft tannins and
barely noticeable oak make it terrific with turkey.
2000 Clos du Bois, Sonoma, Pinot Noir
$16 – A versatile pinot that’s widely available.
Elegant and supple, with touches of toastiness and delicate
mushroom aromas followed by lovely cherry flavors.
1999 Navarro Vineyards, Méthode à L'Ancienne,
Pinot Noir
$ 19 – Deliciously fruity. Soft tannins and balanced
oak are wrapped with ripe cherry fruit and hints of
clove. It’s a sexy red that shows why pinot noir
is so addictive.
1999 Gloria Ferrer, Carneros, Pinot Noir
$ 23 – Made by the sparkling wine producer from
California, this wine is just plain pretty. Fairly dark
in color for a pinot, it overflows with bing cherry
and strawberry flavors topped off with a spicy kick.
1999 Domaine Drouhin, Oregon, Pinot Noir
$ 40 – A showcase bottle for guests -- feminine
and delicate, but also intense, powerful, and structured.
Lovely rose petal and cherry aromas fill the glass when
you pour this wine, which is followed by peppery plum,
licorice and vanilla flavors and a smooth, silky texture.
2000 Glen Ellen, California, Gamay Beaujolais
$ 6 – Okay, it’s not pinot noir, but you can’t
beat the price of this wine (which tastes like Kool-aid
for adults). A good choice if you’re hosting a
big gathering, it can even be lightly chilled.
DESSERT WINE
Don’t forget to cap off the meal with a dessert
wine, which adds panache to the pie course.
2000 King Estate, Oregon Pinot Gris, "Vin Glacé"
$ 18 – Even if you’re not a dessert wine drinker,
you’ll love this slightly sweet wine. Made by freezing
ultra-ripe pinot gris grapes and then squeezing out
the juice, it’s like sipping a fruit salad. Grapefruit,
apricot, pear and apple flavors jump from the glass.
(375 ML bottle)
1999 Mendelson Vineyard, Muscat Canelli, Mendocino dessert
wine
$ 35 – This is absolutely wonderful. The packaging
is beautiful making it ideal to bring as a gift to someone’s
house, but the wine inside is gorgeous. Creamy, rich,
and ripe it’s not overly sweet and sports refreshing
acidity. Perfect with pumpkin pie. (375 ML bottle)
2000 Wolffer Estate, Late Harvest Chardonnay, The Hamptons,
Long Island
$ 32 – The best word for this wine is nectar. Ultra-ripe
and very sweet, it’s reminiscent of pineapple,
pear, and spice. Serve this well-chilled to diners who
are too full for pie. It’s delicious savored by
itself. (375 ML bottle)
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